AQUATICS BY GEORGE

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BRISTLENOSE CATFISH CARE GUIDE

Ancistrus catfish (commonly known as "bristlenose pleco" or "bushynose pleco") are one of the most commonly available species in the Loricariidae family which includes Otocinclus, Whiptail catfish (Farlowella sp., Rineloricaria sp. etc.) and the "common pleco" (Hypostomus plecostomus and Glyptoperichthys gibbiceps).

 

The more significant difference is that unlike the "common pleco", Ancistrus stay at a relatively small size  (up to about 5" for males, usually more like 4" for females, whereas the commons can reach up to 12"-24", sometimes larger). Because of this, bristlenose catfish are a much more practical choice for the average community tank, and are also one of the best algae eaters for planted aquariums. 

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HOUSING

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They are not suitable for small aquaria, however, due to their high bioload. I would recommend at least a 15-20 gallon aquarium for one specimen or a pair, with 30 gallons being a better option. They require at least one hiding spot per individual, and I would recommend having one extra, especially when keeping more than one male, since this will make territorial disputes less likely. Hides can be as simple as an unglazed terracotta pot (a pot cut in half makes an attractive hide with some aquatic moss, Java fern, Anubias or other epiphytes attached), or as elaborate as an aquarium-specific cave from the pet store. Pieces of slate can also be glued together with aquarium silicone to construct caves and breeding nooks. 

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WATER CONDITIONS

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Plecos generally come from somewhat fast flowing rivers in South America, and they do not seem to tolerate low oxygen levels well. If the oxygen levels are low, you may notice them occasionally dash to the surface for a gulp of air. They are not normally air breathers, and only seem to do so in an emergency, so if you notice them doing this, you should add more oxygenation, adding an airstone, sponge filter, or circulation pump, or by positioning the output of your filter above the surface to cause more agitation. 

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According to Planet Catfish, the ideal temperature range is between 21.5-26.5°C or 70.7-79.7°F. If yours are towards the higher end of this range, the water must be very well oxygenated. 

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They require very clean water to do their best, so I would recommend a filter rated for at least twice the size of your aquarium. They can tolerate a wide range of conditions, but it's essential for the conditions to remain somewhat stable, and not fluctuate constantly, so I would recommend a pH of at least 7.0  (natural range is between 5.5 - 7.5) and a KH (carbonate hardness) level of at least 3 - 5 degrees (if you have "soft" (low mineral) water, like most in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia, you can add a bit of mineral buffer, or some chunks of crushed coral to your filter, in a mesh baggie). 

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Like all aquatics, they require 0 ammonia and 0 nitrate, and a nitrate level below 40 PPM (ideally under 20 PPM) to do well, which can be accomplished by running your aquarium empty for 4-6 weeks, with a  small pinch of fish flakes or a small splash of household ammonia, as a source of nutrients for the beneficial nitrifying bacteria which will colonize the filter, to convert the toxic waste produced by the animals into nitrate, which is totally harmless at low levels. I would always recommend testing for at least ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before adding any animal to your aquarium.  

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If you'd rather not worry about nitrogen cycling, you can purchase something like "ZeoCarb" (zeolite and activated carbon AKA charcoal) or "Polyfilter", which are both types of chemical filtration. 

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SEXING 

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Ancistrus are similar to common plecos in appearance, except for the "bristles" (tentacles) on the head. These are much larger and more noticeable in sexually mature males, while the females usually have only a few smaller ones, if any. The males also have bristles higher up on the nose and head, whereas the females tend to have only a few around the mouth. The females can also be told apart from the males by their body shape, which tends to be more round around the abdomen, especially in sexually mature females. 

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Ancistrus species in the pet trade are of unknown origin, and may actually be hybrids composed of several different species. Some of the parent species may include A. cirrhosus, A. dolichopterus, A. temminckii, A. hoplogenys, and several others. Planet Catfish now refers to the common Ancistrus as "Ancistrus cf. cirrhosus", previously known as "Ancistrus sp. 3".

 

--- https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=49

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DIET

Ancistrus are often thought to be vegetarians, and are fed lettuce and cucumber or zucchini because of that, however, in the wild they feed mainly on algae which is actually relatively high in protein because it contains a large number of microscopic organisms known as "aufwichs".

 

Because of this, they require some protein in their diet, which can be provided with spirulina tablets or occasional meaty foods such as organic shrimp or prawn, bloodworm or daphnia,  etc. The majority of their diet should be composed of vegetable matter, however, and they often develop digestive problems when given a diet containing too much meat. 

 

In my experience, they do best when they have constant access to vegetables, and I prefer to give them a variety of these, including carrots, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, sweet potato, butternut squash, grapes, watermelon, peas, edamame beans and basically anything else except onions, garlic or peppers.

 

Lettuce, zucchini and cucumbers are fine, but they can be messy to feed, and inconvenient since they don't sink on their own, and have to be weighted down using stainless steel skewers, forks, or can also be stuck inside of a "veggie clip", which is a plastic clamp attached to a suction cup, or put under a rock. They most likely won't survive long on a diet of only algae, in your aquarium, and death from starvation is very common, in these cases. 

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I like to feed whole fruits and vegetables to mine on a daily basis, along with "Critter Crumbs" (all of the different varieties on occasion, to keep things interesting, but mostly "Regular" and "Seafood and Sweet Potato"), and I always like to give them some bogwood or driftwood  to graze on between meals.

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Wood is another thing which seems to be beneficial to Ancistrus catfish, (although the essential element may actually be cellulose, which can be provided by a constant supply of vegetables, and many believe that the lignin in the driftwood is beneficial to them. Whether they truly need it or not, it is undeniable that they enjoy driftwood, and in a large group, they spend a lot of time among the wood, and will chase one another among the wood, competing for the largest and most attractive patches.

 

The wood also gives them a constant supply of food, since the cracks and crevices are a great place for algae to grow. 

You can collect your own driftwood, if you'd rather not pay for the pieces from your local pet store, as long as you are sure that the trees have never been sprayed with any chemicals, but only a few species are definitely safe to use.  These include: Oak, beech, apple, cherry, alder, pear and heather. These should be boiled for several hours to remove most of the tannins, if you don't want your water to be turned black.

 

If you're planning an Amazonian biotope aquarium, however, you may like the "blackwater" effect that the tannins provide. Along with some angelfish or discus and cardinal tetras, this can be one of the most attractive displays in the aquarium hobby. 

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Wood for aquariums can be collected but only from specific species of trees. If you're not sure, buy it from the aquarium or pet shop.

 

Learn more about safe types of wood for aquariums:

http://injaf.org/articles-guides/guide-to-aquarium-wood/

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VARIETIES AVAILABLE:

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There are many domestic colour varieties of Ancistrus, including:

 

"L144" or "False L144" (Also known as "lemon", these are usually bright yellow with black or silver eyes, and the technical name is disputed, but thought to be either xanthic or leucistic, and may be descended from a single wild caught individual (the "true L144").

 

"Silvertip" (brown with white markings), "super red" (reddish orange), "calico" (yellow/orange and black markings),

 

Albino (white or golden with pink or red eyes) 

 

There are also just as many different long finned varieties, sometimes known as "butterfly" or "veil tail".

 

There are also a large variety of brownish wild type Ancistrus species, and some that are nearly jet black, often wild caught or bred from wild caught, in those cases. 

 

BREEDING:

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If you have a mature male and a mature female, and give them a suitable cave  (narrow mouthed, small enough that the male can block the opening with his body, and cave just large enough to fit both of them inside of it), there is a very good chance that you may end up with some hatchlings. The male chases the female away after she lays her eggs, and he raising the offspring on his own. They are devoted fathers, and fans the eggs with his fins, to keep them well oxygenated, and chases away any fish who come near. After a couple of weeks, you'll start to see tiny hatchlings emerge, and if there are no predatory fish in the aquarium, and if you provide them with a constant supply of food, you should have some big, healthy juveniles of your own within a couple of months. The females shouldn't be allowed to breed constantly, and I would recommend no more than once every six months. The males should also have a break between breeding, since they don't eat much for a few weeks while they are guarding their clutch, and they tend to lose a bit of weight during this time, and should have a chance to recuperate for a couple of months after that. 

 

I hope that this care guide has helped you, and that you enjoy your little catfish friends as much as I do. 

George

 

SOURCES:

http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/ancistrus-cf-cirrhosus/

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https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=49

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http://www.aquariumlife.net/profiles/plecostamus/bristle-nose-pleco/100049.asp
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1"+ bristlenose pleco Ancistrus catfish juveniles now available. 

 

Regular fin silvertips start at $5. Long fin silvertips start at $10

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Regular fin leucistic (yellow with black and silver eyes) start at $8 (SOLD OUT)

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Regular fin calicos (yellow/orange and black) start at $10.

 

Long fin calicos start at $15. (SOLD OUT)

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Discounts for multiples. Open to trades on food, tanks, equipment, (lids, lights, filters, heaters etc.), peaceful community fish, shrimp, plants, etc. 

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Pick up in Abbotsford, or from my table at the BC Reptile Expo in Abbotsford, every April and September.

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ALSO AVAILABLE:

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Aquatics By George has basically everything you will need to get started with your new aquarium or terrarium:

Aquariums and terrariums  (5, 10, 20, 30, 40G.) 

All kinds of supplies and accessories, (Digital thermometers, sponge filters, check valves, stainless steel airline splitters / gang valves etc.

Hides  (aspen log hides for reptiles, rodents, birds and other small animals  and terracotta hides  for wet pets)

Live plants (both aquatic and terrestrial, some suitable for low light, low temperature set ups)

Live foods (White worms, microworms, CB European Nightcrawlers

High quality prepared foods, (Rangen soft/moist sinking carnivore pellets, "Critter Crumbs" in "Regular", "Veggie", "Seafood and Sweet Potato" and "Seafood")
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Have you seen one of our items available for a lower price, from another local seller? Let me know, and I might be able to match it for you.